
The last day of my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela came and went in a series of visions; the dark forest, the twisting farmlands, the edge of the suburbs, the highways leading to and from the city, and finally the city itself. Unlike coming into Burgos and Leon, the two other largest cities along The Way, where there were vast and ugly commercial avenues leading to the old cities, Santiago suffered from no such definition and confinement.
Time had suspended itself during that day’s walk. Whether my shoulders ached from the weight of the backpack or my feet shouted for pity and eternal rest, I sensed neither, nor would have entertained their overtures for attention. Rather, my attention was focused upon what seemed the goal; the east gate to the old city and the cathedral within. I so wanted to be within the cool and soaring stone walls of the cathedral for the noon Pilgrims’ Mass. It was Sunday, and so that hope carried even a greater strength and purpose. I also – confession time – desired to part myself, bodily and spiritually, from my backpack. By now, it had attained full status as a symbol of my self-containment and daily measure. Here in Santiago de Compostela I wanted to bust out, and breathe the air in ridiculous abundance, stretch my limbs, and heap impetuousness upon my land-leaned body and mind. I had experienced and disciplined myself to the Camino for the past five weeks, practicing what I had preached to myself for the past year of what it should be like on the Camino, that I just wanted a little, untidy exuberance. A hotel awaited my backpack and walking sticks. I could leave them there, and go onto the cathedral and walk the streets to my leisure. Walk? Some more? Continue reading Santiago de Compostela